Opened in 1988, the Kupu Kupu Barong is the oldest operating resort in the Sayan Valley. To those unaware, its full name – Kupu Kupu Barong Resort and Tree Spa by L’Occitane – might imply that the hotel is related to or even operated by the famed French beauty retailer. The ‘by L’Occitane’ tagline is also used heavily on all Kupu Kupu Resorts marketing, building a strong case for this suggestion. However, I’ll note that only their spa is related to the brand; even so, it suspiciously doesn’t show up as an affiliate spa on the Spa L’Occitane website. In any case, I felt that this is a blatantly sneaky and misleading marketing strategy on the part of the hotel.

Booking Kupu Kupu Barong

Following an event I attended in Uluwatu, I made a last-minute decision to extend my stay on the island. Owing to the summer peak season and Ubud’s wild popularity in recent years, most resorts were charging highly unfavourable surcharges – that is, until I came across Kupu Kupu Barong. Specifically, I got a breakfast-inclusive nightly rate of IDR 1,500,000 (~ USD 93, GBP 73) that booked me into an entry-level ‘Deluxe Suite’ in the resort’s Jungle Retreat section. As I’ve often passed by Kupu Kupu Barong when I lived in Ubud, I felt that it wouldn’t hurt to finally check out the resort!

Location

The Kupu Kupu Barong is located in Kedewatan Village, located next to the Sayan area where you’ll find resorts like Mandapa, Amandari, Four Seasons, Kayumanis, and Samaya. Kupu Kupu Barong is itself a hilly 10-minute drive north of Ubud proper. Near the hotel are many local warung eateries, a few popular with visitors and locals alike. Nearby, you’ll also find the popular Taman Dedari statue park, located in the Royal Pita Maha complex, showcasing the works of local Ubud artisans.

Check-in

After finding our way down the tiny road leading to Kupu Kupu Barong, we were met by fork diverges between a dilapidated road and a small and unmarked gate. Given the lack of any signage, I was a bit confused as to where the resort entrance was located. Thankfully, a villager soon passed by and indicated that the gated entrance leads to the resort and not somebody’s home.

Once we pulled up at the Kupu Kupu Barong’s small parking lot, I was directed to the beautiful reception area, which faces the lush Sayan Valley. As the lone check-in agent was handling another guest as we arrived, we were kindly requested to sit down in the sofas.

A warm and friendly staff member soon approached us with a welcome drink of cold roselle tea. As he completed our check-in formalities, he also provided explanations about the resort alongside an informative pamphlet regarding the resort’s amenities. Soon enough, we were then handed our keys and taken to our room in the Jungle Retreat in a golf cart.

While treated in bookings as a separate property, I’ll emphasise that the Jungle Retreat is by all means and purposes a fully integrated part of the Kupu Kupu Barong resort. As all arrival and departure administration is conducted at Kupu Kupu Barong, I genuinely have no idea why Kupu Kupu Resorts differentiates this wing.

Jungle Retreat

After checking in, we were taken to our room on a golf cart, passing through a questionable-looking passageway that reeked of manure. As we ploughed through the dense foliage, it soon became clear why the annexe was given its ‘Jungle Retreat’ moniker. While the setting is undoubtedly distinctive and sort of beautiful, the distance becomes a hassle whenever you need to head to the lobby or breakfast restaurant.

Once we reached the Jungle Retreat, I was surprised to be met by a foyer that is best described as dilapidated. Even the myriad of gaudy, safari-themed furniture cannot distract me from noticing how run down the place looked. And having addressed the elephant rhinoceros in the room, who even came up with this ill-conceived concoction?

From there on, I was taken to my room on the ground floor.

Deluxe Suite

The Deluxe Suite features a single king-sized bed, alongside a bulky and uncomfortable antique-styled sofa on the side. There is a clunky wooden desk-cum-mini bar, as well as a luggage rack and small cupboard across, alongside a disproportionally small television mounted on the wall. While the room looks a lot more toned down compared to the crazy style of the foyer, I was still surprised by its degree of eccentricity.

Disregarding its peculiarity, between the manau-clad ceilings and the faded Persian-style carpet to the red lampshades and the creepy doll hung over the bed, there’s simply too much going on about the room. While there is admittedly an almost shabby chic quality to the design, there’s too much of a sensory overload to warrant that sentiment.

Despite being advertised as 55 sqm (600 sqft) in size, the Deluxe Suite at the Jungle Retreat did not come across as especially spacious. While the bathroom and balcony do take up a bit of space, there was just something about the room that made it feel stuffy and constraining. Perhaps this impression can be attributed to the cacophony of loud design and maximalist furniture making up the pink-coloured room.

Balcony

Outside the room, there is a relatively spacious balcony overlooking the lush forest greenery beyond. The balcony also has two sets of wicker-textured plastic patio chairs, each with an ottoman. With insect repellent applied, this is a great place to unwind in the afternoon when it is not too hot.

Bathroom

Located by the entryway is the open bathroom, separated from the room with only a thin sheer curtain. The bathroom features an oversized bathtub, with a built-in shower, alongside a large vanity with a novelty stone sink, and a toilet hidden in a separate closet room. Much like the bedroom, the eclectic choice of furnishing does mean that the bathroom looks charming in a rundown sort of way.

From the sheer orange curtains to the stone-carved sink to the grouted marble tiles, it just looked like the resort was deliberately going for a kitsch look when designing the rooms. While definitely not my cup of tea, it was admittedly quite fun to see. On top of that, the shower and bathtub’s water pressure was pretty good although hot water could be a bit limited at certain times of the day.

Finally, you’ll find the toilet hidden in a small closet across the wardrobe. Notably, the toilet has a handheld bidet, which isn’t too surprising considering that this is the case in many Indonesian hotels and in most of Southeast Asia.

WiFi Connectivity

Facilities

Being the oldest resort in Sayan and Kedewatan, it is no surprise that Kupu Kupu Barong occupies among the most beautiful plots in the area. While its rooms could do with some extra care, the resort grounds have developed a nice patina that truly exudes a charming feel. However, I’ll note that between the lack of a map and the confusing layout, it might be a bit hard to figure out where you’re going.

Nests

As you walk from the lobby down the hillside path to the villas, you’ll encounter a few nest-like structures. Housing a table each, each ‘nest’ functions as a dining setup viewing the Sayan Valley. For one, Kupu Kupu Barong isn’t alone in offering these intimately designed settings, as you’ll find the same at many others like the nearby Pita Maha Resort.

Main Pool

Located near the resort’s villas is the relatively small, organic-shaped main pool. Surrounded by lush greenery and a manicured garden, the pool area is perhaps one of the nicest-looking in the resort. There is also a Minang-style hut on the side, inside which you’ll find a handful of pool loungers. I’ll also add that the pool staff are friendly and chatty, and would gladly help with any assistance on the poolside.

Rooftop Pool

Owing to the angles used in the majority of the resort’s photography, you’d be forgiven to think that Kupu Kupu Barong has a sizeable rooftop pool – see the below picture, for example. Sadly, what you’ll find is perhaps best said as a cheap attempt at an infinity pool instead.

At best, it is an elevated wading pool rather than a full-fledged swimming pool. Disregarding its tiny size, the porcelain tiled-lined pool does not have any discernable ladders or stairs, potentially making it quite hazardous. If anything, the sun loungers here are well-placed without obstruction if you’re trying to get a tan.

Fitness Area and Library

Located in the Jungle Retreat foyer is the fitness area, combined with a small reading nook that serves as the resort’s library. Given its makeshift nature, it is unsurprising to see that the fitness area only has a handful of old-looking equipment in place. Among the equipment available were a treadmill and two exercise bikes, as well as an elliptical trainer and a single chest press.

Next to the fitness area is a small reading area with several dozen books. The reading nook has a small sofa alongside a canopied daybed precariously arranged near the fitness equipment. Alternatively, there is also a small gazebo just outside in the garden, which can serve as a more ‘tranquil’ space to read a book.

Shuttle Service

Running every two hours from 09.00 to 17.00 is the resort’s shuttle service to downtown Ubud. Considering the resort’s location in Kedewatan, the shuttle cuts travel time from over an hour’s walk to less than 20 minutes. If you don’t have a car, this is a great way to circumnavigate the extortionate prices charged by Ubud’s notorious taxi mafia.

Breakfast

Breakfast is served between 07.00 to 11.00 each day at the appropriately named La View Restaurant, which hangs above the beautiful Sayan Valley. Doubling as the resort’s all-day dining and afternoon tea venue, the restaurant transforms into a buffet each morning.

As mentioned above, the breakfast service is chiefly composed of a buffet spread, featuring Balinese, Indian, Chinese, and Western choices. For one, while the selection is nothing impressive and rather old-fashioned, I appreciate that there is a rustic quality to the meal. In addition, there is a made-to-order egg station, with a very friendly chef who is nothing less of a star. Regardless, I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves.

Service

While I’ve not had a lot of good things to say about the resort thus far, I’ll have to point out that the staff at Kupu Kupu Barong were nothing short of lovely. The staff was both pleasant and friendly while leaving out any arrogant or uptight attitude you might encounter at higher-end resorts.

Each and every person I interacted with was charming and generous with smiles, striking up a casual conversation whenever appropriate. All of them were also very enthusiastic and passionate, clearly showing that they took pride in doing their jobs. In fact, I feel that Kupu Kupu Barong has the potential to become a top resort thanks to this – assuming that they rebuild the whole place that is.

Overall

The hotel has many quaint qualities to it, but certainly not enough to outweigh the overwhelming negatives. It is almost like a real life version of the Best Exotic Marigold Hotel if you will, only in a more eccentric and less tasteful setting. If it weren’t for their incredible staff, I probably wouldn’t consider staying here again, at least not the Jungle Retreat in particular, despite the beautiful natural setting. As such, if a full-blown remodelling were to be done, I would be back in a heartbeat.

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