Opened in 1989, Amandari is the second Aman to open, following the original Amanpuri of Phuket. The resort occupies a prime piece of real estate that overlooks the majestic Sayan Valley. Despite its age, the resort is well-kept and maintained, a lot like many of the other older Amans. Perhaps often overlooked when compared to Amandari’s iconic sister resort – Amankila, it still holds up to be a very solid option compared to the aging Four Seasons Sayan and the much newer Mandapa next door.

Curiously, I was told that Amandari was designed based on Sanur’s Tandjung Sari, having originally intended to carry its name. Yet, the resort became an Aman when Tandjung Sari’s proprietor, Wija Waworuntu, ultimately disagreed with the idea – wishing his hotel to stay with its family-run roots.

Location

Amandari is located in Sayan Village, sharing a road with other high-end resorts, including Mandapa (a Ritz-Carlton Reserve), Four Seasons at Sayan, The Samaya, and Kayumanis Ubud. The resort is located 10 minutes away by car to central Ubud. Additionally, it takes around an hour or two to reach the airport.

Nearby are many selections of local eateries and great restaurants, including the acclaimed Mozaic Restaurant. The popular Sayan House café is 10 minutes away on foot, which offers great views.

Arrival and Check-in

Whilst Amanresort stays in Indonesia usually include island-wide transfers, we ultimately decided to drive to the resort, given the last-minute nature of our stay. We arrived at Amandari at around 13.00, having just checked out from Sanur’s Tandjung Sari. After a thorough security check, we pulled up into the resort’s beautiful but leafy porte-cochère. There we were immediately greeted by name by our warm host, ibu Masrani.

We were the only guests to check in on that day and likewise, the resort felt deserted. Throughout our entire stay, only two other suites were occupied. It felt like Aman, all right! Following a brief exchange of pleasantries, she walked us straight to our suite, where check-in was done (as usual). All the while, ibu Masrani was very polished and courteous.

Notably, Amandari’s lobby courtyard features a statue of a tiger. This guardian statue is based on a smaller statue that protects an ancient Hindu shrine some 129 steps down from the resort’s pool. The shrine commemorates the visit of a tiger-toting 7th-century Javanese Hindu priest, who blessed the land on which Amandari rests.

Our Valley Suite

Whilst we booked an entry-level Garden Suite, we were unexpectedly assigned a Valley Suite. This upgrade wasn’t communicated either, so it all came as a surprise. The Valley Suites are sized at around 250 sqm, of which around 100 sqm comprised the interior. The suite features a beautiful and generous Balinese garden, on which a dining balé (pavilion) stands.

Bedroom

As soon as we entered the room, we were met with a lit sandalwood incense, which gave off a smell very reflective of Bali – sweet, earthy, and floral. As expected from its name, our Valley Suite overlooks the beautiful Sayan Valley. The flow of the mighty Ayung River is echoed throughout the space, providing a great deal of white noise. Whilst the room is virtually unchanged for the past 30 years, it has a very nice ambiance that feels more classic than outdated.

The bedroom features two desks which seemed completely unnecessary and could easily be swapped for something else. Regardless, it gave the room a nice symmetrical look akin to The Legian. We were greeted with a generous platter of Balinese fruits which constantly topped up. The suite also features a coffee machine by the minibar that was rather clunky and hard to operate. Despite that, I liked that the coffee pods were local, from a brand called Unacaffe. Just like Amankila, televisions are available on request.

Aman Amenities

Two sarongs and a day bag are provided in the closet, of which guests are welcome to take home. Also provided in the room are jars of cookies and crisps, similar to Amankila – a very thoughtful amenity.

Additionally, much like the other Bali Amans, a small gift of sorts is left on the bed during turn-down service. These gifts featured handicraft things like wooden carved objects.

Bathroom

Across from the bed is the washroom, which houses the suites’ closets and two sinks. Joining that is the bathroom, with a separate shower and outdoor bathtub. The jasmine-scented toiletries came in refillable ceramic bottles, which were of excellent quality.

Curiously, Amandari did not seem to get the same degree of investment compared to Amankila, which already offers excellent TOTO Washlets. Regardless, I am honestly not a big fan of the outdoor bathtub which often feels rather dirty with all sorts of leaves and insects in addition to some mud and soil from the adjacent plants in times of heavy rain.

Terrace

Outside the suite, there is a terrace with two sun loungers, viewing the valley. Additionally, a small courtyard on the opposide side features a platform that doubles as a yoga area.

Dining

Amandari has one restaurant and bar, both located in pavilions connected to the reception. The restaurant nicely has views of the beautiful pool and the valley. However, due to the resort’s proximity to well-regarded eateries nearby, the restaurant and bar remained deserted during our stay.

Dinner

We had a light dinner at Amandari’s restaurant on one occasion, which was unfortunately rather underwhelming. Amandari hasn’t had the best reputation for food in recent years, and this was no exception. The light meal I had was uninspiring and didn’t feel particularly fresh. Fortunately, it is a very different scene during breakfast.

Breakfast

The breakfast was similarly served at the restaurant and had a menu featuring a good selection of Indonesian and Western dishes. Overall, I did feel that the Indonesian options were better than the Western ones, in terms of taste and quality. However, I really liked how customisable the breakfast was. As long as we make a request in a reasonable time, we are able to have the dishes cooked in a certain way.

Apart from a muesli and yoghurt bowl that was served with granola instead, I had no complaints about the breakfast selection.

Resort Grounds and Amenities

Pool

Amandari is set on a valley-viewing 4-hectare plot featuring 30 suites. The resort has one main pool located right by the restaurant, which features incredible views of the Sayan Valley. The pool is surrounded by a few sun loungers and also has a small pavilion on one side, which can feature live Balinese music performances.

Library

Behind the reception is also a sizeable library complete with many books and curiosities. I loved that they also had copies of Amanresorts’ original compendiums – Aman: A Portrait of Amanresorts and Aman2. There is also a small business centre, as well as a daybed outside the library.

Other things

Amandari also has a gym and tennis court complex located towards the northern end of the resort. In addition, as previously mentioned, there is also an ancient Hindu shrine located 129 steps down from the pool. Guests are permitted to visit it, although I imagine modest clothing is expected – perhaps the provided sarongs would come in handy, after all 😉

Service

The staff members at Amandari were very attentive and eager to please. Despite the limited workforce, they were still able to provide great service, staying true to the Amanresorts’ legacy. The attention to detail is exceptional and no little touches were overlooked. For instance, they noticed that I preferred one type of their fresh cookies over the other, and promptly delivered a fresh batch to the suite. Likewise, the fruit bowl initially featured a bunch of green bananas, which were later changed with much riper yellow ones upon realising they were never touched. 😀

Moreover, I had been looking around for a specific book and asked the staff about it on a few occasions. Lo and behold, the staff surprised me with that book on our last night. This is truly the Aman magic I remember!

Overall

Overall, I would not hesitate even the slightest in recommending Amandari. The resort, which I think is often overlooked in favour of Amankila, is an excellent option despite all the newer and blingier rivals located near and around it. Despite its age, Amandari has stood the test of time and remains very beautiful. It is also wonderfully lowkey and tucked away from all the crowds. 

Amandari’s peaceful surroundings, coupled with the exceptional service from the warm Amandari team made the stay nothing short of phenomenal.

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