Hotel Yak & Yeti is a historic hotel, housed partly within the restored Lal Durbar Palace, which dates back to the late 19th century. Originally built in 1890, the palace was later converted into a hotel in 1977 with 241 rooms. The property has since expanded to include newer wings, while retaining elements of the original structure, such as carved woodwork. The hotel’s name is derived from the famed Yak & Yeti Bar – previously housed in the Lal Durbar Palace – which was a haven for Western mountaineers in Nepal.

Booking Hotel Yak & Yeti

When I first started to look for hotels in Kathmandu, my mind sprang straight to the famed Dwarika’s Hotel. However, after seeing their eye-watering rates (in the context of Kathmandu), the old Hotel Yak & Yeti soon came to mind. For my four-night stay, I paid an average nightly rate of USD 85 (or GBP 63). This rate booked me into a Heritage Deluxe Room, located within the hotel’s main wing. For a total of USD 340, this was an absolute steal of a price in my books.

Location

Hotel Yak & Yeti occupies a prestigious stretch of Durbar Marg in Kathmandu, within a short walk from Durbar Square and the Narayanhity Palace Museum. Furthermore, it is close to various attractions, including the Kumari Ghar, Hanuman Dhoka, and the ornamental Garden of Dreams. The hotel itself is surrounded by historic palaces, wood-carving workshops, and bustling local markets, which you’ll find right outside the property.

Check-in

After arriving in Kathmandu on Nepal Airlines, I took an airport taxi straight to the hotel. When I arrived at about half past eight, the hotel’s porte-cochère was deserted with no one to greet us. As we didn’t have much luggage, it was not an issue and we walked straight inside.

Despite the hotel’s age, I was thoroughly impressed with the surprisingly contemporary, beautiful look of the intimate lobby. On top of the ornate wood and stonework lining the space, I found myself distracted by the numerous artworks in the lobby, depicting various Buddhist and Hindu figures influential to Nepal’s culture and history.

After marvelling at the lobby’s many curiosities, I quickly found the reception for check-in. At the desk, I was greeted by two courteous agents who promptly offered me a welcome drink of warm herbal tea. After taking note of my passport details and confirming my reservation, I was quickly and efficiently issued a pair of keys to my room.

As I was staying at the Heritage Wing in the main building, I proceeded straight to the lifts across the reception to get to my room on the third floor. After exiting the lift, I was met by the long corridors, where the hotel’s age was beginning to show. While the carpets have been changed, there was something profoundly dated and rustic about the look.

Heritage Deluxe Room

I was assigned a Heritage Deluxe Twin Room which at 24 sqm (260 sqft) is rather small. Upon entry, the room opens into a traditionally styled space with carved dark wood furnishings, patterned carpets, and cream-toned walls – clearly taking cues from the hotel’s historical character. While the ambiance was more rustic than modern, the room felt tidy and comfortable enough for a short stay.

Bedroom

With its timber flooring, and intricately carved wood elements, the cosy Heritage Deluxe Room wouldn’t look out of place in an alpine lodge. Lighting was soft but adequate, with wall-mounted lamps and accent lights positioned to complement the room’s vintage-style decor. At the centre are the twin beds, which were separated with a shared nightstand with a pair of conveniently placed power outlets. Two small upholstered chairs are positioned near the window, complemented by a large table. Doubling as a second desk, the setup allows for an extra bit of space in the limited real estate of the room.

Across the beds is a large television console, also featuring intricate carvings, which doubles as a minibar and a desk. Here, the rustic feel of the room is maintained courtesy of the black and white pictures on the wall; this includes a portrait of Maharaja Bir Shumsher Jung Bahadur Rana, who built the adjacent Lal Durbar Palace. I’ll note, however, that due to the placement of the television and coffee and tea-making tray, the desk is quite useless.

Finally, I’ll add that the wardrobe is located by the entryway; a digital safe is housed neatly within the closet cabinetry, rounding out a standard but functional set of amenities. Next to that are a mirror and a small built-in luggage rack, complementing a collapsable rack placed next to the bed.

Bathroom

Located by the bedroom’s entryway is the smart-looking marble bathroom. This features a large vanity surface with a granite-topped sink, alongside a large mirror with a carved wood-frame. Complementing that is a toilet equipped with a handheld bidet, a common sight in the region. On the other end is the shower stall, which is equipped with both a ceiling-hung rain shower and a traditional hand-held showerhead.

The bath amenities were hotel-branded, featuring a blend of aloe vera and red apples. While this house brand amenities are usually mediocre or worse, I was very impressed with the quality of these toiletries. Better yet, they were manufactured nearby, giving a nice, local dimension to the hotel’s soft amenities.

While simple and modern, I found the bathroom’s lighting to be a bit too dim for my liking. In addition, I felt that the shower guard has not been designed properly. Prolonged hot showers causes the floor to flood from the water splatter, while also making the space feel quite humid.

Amenities

Fitness Centre

The Fitness Centre is located within the hotel’s Nirvana Spa compound and is open daily between 07.00 to 22.00. It includes a comprehensive selection of Lifefitness and Cybex cardio equipment machines and weight machines, including things such as leg presses, treadmills, bicycles, and free weights.

While relatively outdated, the hotel’s wood-floored fitness centre feels well-maintained, featuring wall-hung television blasting workout music. However, at its relatively small size, I did feel a bit claustrophobic exercising here, considering how tightly packed the equipment were arranged to one another.

I’ll also add that the Nirvana Spa has a jacuzzi and sauna facility, open to all hotel guests. Located in the locker rooms adjacent to the fitness centre, it provides a nice alternative to the seasonal outdoor pool during winter months.

Gardens

While centrally located, the Yak & Yeti’s gardens and quiet temple courtyard are haven from the chaotic streets of Kathmandu. The gardens are spacious and well‑manicured, located right behind the main building. Here’s you’ll find both the pool and the tennis courts, as well as an ornamental temple and a pond populated by ducks and geese.

A prominent feature of the garden is the Lal Durbar Palace, featuring its striking pink facade. While it primarily serves as the hotel’s meeting and conference facility, it also housed a modern incarnation of The Chimney Restaurant. Previously known as The Yak & Yeti restaurant, The Chimney was the main restaurant at Boris Lisayevich’s Hotel Royal – which was Kathmandu’s first Western-style hotel.

Pool

Hotel Yak & Yeti features a seasonal outdoor pool located within the hotel’s garden, open between 08.00 and 19.00 for hotel guests and health club members. This pool is surrounded by sun loungers and an adjacent Pool Bar. Unfortunately, as I was visiting in the winter, the hotel’s pool had been drained out and was closed for the season.

Shopping Arcade

The hotel’s shopping arcade is situated just off the main lobby, housed in a corridor connecting the main hotel to the Lal Durbar Palace wing. Lined with boutiques specializing in jewelry, handicrafts, and Nepalese antiques, the arcade offers high-quality shopping though at a price premium.

Tennis Court

Hotel Yak & Yeti has two flood‑lit outdoor tennis courts available for hotel guests, with equipment accessible through the sports facilities. The two adjacent courts are well maintained, featuring flood lights which extends usable hours well into the night.

Service

Overall, the service during my stay was courteous and consistently polite, though largely unremarkable in my opinion. For one, my interactions with the hotel’s staff were pleasant, and they were very professional. In everything, the experience felt competent and in line with standard expectations from a hotel of this size.

Overall

Despite the stay being largely unremarkable, I found Hotel Yak & Yeti to offer a comfortable and well-rounded experience. The staff were consistently polite and professional, though the service was routine rather than memorable. While nothing about the experience stood out in a particular, the hotel’s blend of historical character, well-maintained gardens, and solid facilities made for a satisfactory visit. The rooms, while a bit small and rustic, were comfortable enough for my short stay. With the comfortable-enough rooms and very reasonable pricing I paid, it’s a dependable option in Kathmandu that I’d be happy to return to.

Read more from this trip here!